<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post592991632796660178..comments</id><updated>2011-09-22T20:07:59.200+01:00</updated><category term='value'/><category term='Laminate Flooring'/><category term='engineered flooring'/><category term='veneer'/><category term='Caring for Floors'/><category term='wear'/><category term='Cleaning Floors'/><category term='Caledonian'/><category term='help'/><category term='Flooring in Focus'/><category term='hardwood'/><category term='Tuscan American Black Walnut'/><category term='Clyde Tigereye'/><category term='water'/><category term='handsawn oak'/><category term='floors'/><category term='grading'/><category term='ply'/><category term='Maple'/><category term='species'/><category term='Hardwood Flooring'/><category term='Sanding'/><category term='Tuscan Distressed Oak'/><category term='wood flooring'/><category term='structural flooring'/><category term='Interior Design'/><category term='durability'/><category term='Walnut'/><category term='mckay flooring'/><category term='Staining'/><category term='wood floor. maintenance'/><category term='underfloor heating'/><category term='Laminate'/><category term='resilience'/><category term='Birch'/><category term='floating'/><category term='glueless'/><category term='Clyde Estuary'/><category term='Comparisons'/><category term='Birds Eye Maple'/><category term='question'/><category term='expansion'/><category term='solid'/><category term='click'/><category term='ReclaimedOpepe'/><category term='workability'/><category term='Brinell'/><category term='Refinishing'/><category term='contraction'/><category term='Oak'/><category term='wood'/><category term='Opepe'/><category term='hardness'/><category term='janka'/><category term='re-sandable'/><title type='text'>Comments on wood floor guru: Ask the Wood Floor Guru!</title><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/feeds/592991632796660178/comments/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html'/><author><name>Richard McKay</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/05599034355691564695</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='24' height='32' src='http://bp1.blogger.com/_sao1uF4R3OY/SIOtJL7AFJI/AAAAAAAAAXs/Gl6c77-3LdE/S220/4d2a3b14e_8855032,1.jpg'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>9</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>25</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-2285714082126171286</id><published>2010-04-21T00:49:21.034+01:00</published><updated>2010-04-21T00:49:21.034+01:00</updated><title type='text'>I am trying to put down a genesis floorsystem. It ...</title><content type='html'>I am trying to put down a genesis floorsystem. It seems to buckle up towards me and not lay flait, is it not locking all they way down or is it suppose to do this</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/2285714082126171286'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/2285714082126171286'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1271807361034#c2285714082126171286' title=''/><author><name>doug</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/03990464916987925511</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-826391168'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-795025450741062226</id><published>2010-01-29T18:15:13.350Z</published><updated>2010-01-29T18:15:13.350Z</updated><title type='text'>do you recommend using the dustless sanding proces...</title><content type='html'>do you recommend using the dustless sanding process for refinishing floors?  and, do you know of anyone that does this in the los angeles area?  thank you</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/795025450741062226'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/795025450741062226'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1264788913350#c795025450741062226' title=''/><author><name>mariamantia</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/13884400933335425251</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-395650220'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-2162363583381839760</id><published>2009-09-18T23:36:19.337+01:00</published><updated>2009-09-18T23:36:19.337+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Question: I want to install 3/4 X 3.25 unfinished ...</title><content type='html'>Question: I want to install 3/4 X 3.25 unfinished red oak hardwood floor (nailed). My current flooring is 1/2 non TG plywood over 2X8 joists at 16&amp;quot; with a 5/8 particle board underlayment on top. I will remove the particle board and replace with:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;1) what is best? 5/8 or 3/4  ply or OSB screwed to the 1/2 ply?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;2) Is there any reason NOT to also glue to the 1/2 ply for a more rigid floor?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;3) Is there any reason NOT to screw the new  underlayment into the joists for added rigidity?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;4) If ply, should the underlayment run parallel, but seam offset from the original 1/2 ply or perpendicular to the 1/2 ply?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;5) Also, I need to run the hardwood in a hallway (3&amp;#39; wide) parallel to the joists (in this case they are doubled 2X6 joists). What should the underlayment be in the hallway and how should it be oriented to the joists?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Thanks! Rodger</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/2162363583381839760'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/2162363583381839760'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1253313379337#c2162363583381839760' title=''/><author><name>Anonymous</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img1.blogblog.com/img/blank.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-1451926874'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-5323343383006153142</id><published>2009-07-30T18:48:32.991+01:00</published><updated>2009-07-30T18:48:32.991+01:00</updated><title type='text'>I&amp;#39;m looking at both the Bruce and Genesis myse...</title><content type='html'>I&amp;#39;m looking at both the Bruce and Genesis myself. The big thing for us is that the samples in the stores seem so dull. We were hoping for a floor with more of a shine to it. Is that just the way it is, or could I put another coat of the clear finish on it to make it shinier?&lt;br /&gt;Thanks,&lt;br /&gt;Terry</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/5323343383006153142'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/5323343383006153142'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1248976112991#c5323343383006153142' title=''/><author><name>Terry53</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img1.blogblog.com/img/blank.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-183929418'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-929117510344780098</id><published>2009-03-26T03:36:00.000Z</published><updated>2009-03-26T03:36:00.000Z</updated><title type='text'>Hello Wood Floor Guru!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;We're currently layi...</title><content type='html'>Hello Wood Floor Guru!&lt;BR/&gt;&lt;BR/&gt;We're currently laying red oak flooring (5 inches wide, select grade) throughout all the rooms on an entire floor of a house.  My question is... What is the "correct" way to lay this wood?  Does it have to lay the same direction in all the individual rooms and hallways?  Or can each room have the wood lay in a different direction?  &lt;BR/&gt;&lt;BR/&gt;We have three separate bedrooms with a hallway separating them, and then a large combination area which includes a living room flowing into a kitchen and dining area which then flow into a family room.    &lt;BR/&gt;&lt;BR/&gt;Thanks in advance for your help and advice.  &lt;BR/&gt;&lt;BR/&gt;-- Harris</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/929117510344780098'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/929117510344780098'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1238038560000#c929117510344780098' title=''/><author><name>Harris</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/12482026433633862218</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-1474564282'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-8036492801522418784</id><published>2008-08-26T08:20:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2008-08-26T08:20:00.000+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Hi,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;the conventional way to lay this floor ...</title><content type='html'>Hi,&lt;BR/&gt;&lt;BR/&gt;the conventional way to lay this floor would be to lay it longways. In our opinion it looks better and also reduces waste considerably.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/8036492801522418784'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/8036492801522418784'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1219735200000#c8036492801522418784' title=''/><author><name>Richard McKay</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/05599034355691564695</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='24' height='32' src='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_sao1uF4R3OY/SIOtJL7AFJI/AAAAAAAAAXs/Gl6c77-3LdE/S220/4d2a3b14e_8855032,1.jpg'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-1970497791'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-3581070368791741630</id><published>2008-08-25T00:19:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2008-08-25T00:19:00.000+01:00</updated><title type='text'>For a long hallway, 39" wide by 14 foot long which...</title><content type='html'>For a long hallway, 39" wide by 14 foot long which is the best way to lay an engineered float floor like Tarkett Genesis? I've looked and cannot find a clear answer. Should it be individual units across the 39" or long connected strips on the 14' run.&lt;BR/&gt;Thanks for any advice you can give me,&lt;BR/&gt;George M.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/3581070368791741630'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/3581070368791741630'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1219619940000#c3581070368791741630' title=''/><author><name>Anonymous</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img1.blogblog.com/img/blank.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-567369667'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-5289087349862664369</id><published>2008-07-01T13:53:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2008-07-01T13:53:00.000+01:00</updated><title type='text'>David,&lt;br&gt;both the Bruce and Tarkett systems are g...</title><content type='html'>David,&lt;BR/&gt;both the Bruce and Tarkett systems are good locking systems. We recommend that you make your decision on the wear layer of the top floor surface, the finish of the floor and the price. There are many engineered products on the market which are as good as the two mentioned but you may not get the same guarantee as you would with these two well known brand names.</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/5289087349862664369'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/5289087349862664369'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1214916780000#c5289087349862664369' title=''/><author><name>Richard</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/05599034355691564695</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-1970497791'/></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-6029751536299922308</id><published>2008-06-30T20:41:00.000+01:00</published><updated>2008-06-30T20:41:00.000+01:00</updated><title type='text'>Which of these engineered wood floors 3/8 " thick ...</title><content type='html'>Which of these engineered wood floors 3/8 " thick is better for our home. Bruce's Lock and Fold or&lt;BR/&gt;Tarkett's Genesis Advance Locking system. I can find these two at Home Depot and Lowes. Is there a &lt;BR/&gt;better engineered floor on the market than these two?&lt;BR/&gt;Thanks,&lt;BR/&gt;David</content><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/6029751536299922308'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/592991632796660178/comments/default/6029751536299922308'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html?showComment=1214854860000#c6029751536299922308' title=''/><author><name>dsmith</name><uri>http://www.blogger.com/profile/04686421463367373072</uri><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='16' height='16' src='http://img2.blogblog.com/img/b16-rounded.gif'/></author><thr:in-reply-to xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0' href='http://www.woodfloorguru.com/2008/06/ask-wood-floor-guru.html' ref='tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6217668657026245913.post-592991632796660178' source='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/6217668657026245913/posts/default/592991632796660178' type='text/html'/><gd:extendedProperty xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' name='blogger.itemClass' value='pid-340450196'/></entry></feed>
